Seam for sewed articles.



No. 869,141. PATENTED OCT. 22. 1907.

Y G. MGNEIL.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

APPLIOATION TILED APB. 9,1903.

"' WIN wwwaooao I nbaz attozwu o rszworems PETERS cu, WASHINGTON, u. c.

UNITED STATES PATENT onnron.

CHESTER MoNEIL, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR IO UNION SPECIAL SEWING MA- CHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Oct. 22, 1907.

Application filed April 9, 1903- Serial No. 151,786.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, Cnnsrnn MCNEIL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook, State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Seams for Sewed Articles, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon.

My invention relates to an improvement in seams for sewed articles and especially to a seam for uniting a ruffled strip, as of lace or the like, to a body fabric, as for instance, the securing of the ruffled lace or strip to the edge of the legs of ladies drawers.

In the carrying out of my invention, I form upon the body fabric, what may be called an air tuck about equal in height to the distance between the base thereof and the edge of the fabric, which latter has a hem fold turned thereon. The air tuck is then folded down upon a piece which is inserted above the folded edge and the inserted strip, the tuck and the hem fold in the body fabric, are secured by a line of stitching. The air tuck is made preferably in the usual manner, by providing the throat plate with a rib over which fits a groove in the presser foot, a pair of needles being used to pass rows of loops down through the fabric at the base of the tuck, with a single cross thread underneath uniting the loops, this being accomplished in the manner illustrated in the Union Special type of air cording machine. In the rear thereof is a presser foot, which is adapted to press down said tuck. A folder is provided to fold over the raw edge of the body fabric, a ruffled strip is inserted between the edge of the body fabric and the tuck, after which said presser foot acts to lay said air tuck and in rear of and to one side the pair of needles, is another needle 1, in connection with a cooperating looper, secures the tuck, the inserted strip and the body fabric together, so that although three lines of stitching are used, only two appear on the upper surface of the fabric, one being hidden by the tuck when it is folded over.

The invention consists in the matters hereinafter described and referred to in the appended claims.

In the accompanying drawings, which illustrate the invention, Figure 1 represents the first step in the operation of forming the seam; Fig. 2 the second step; Fig. 3 the third step; Fig. 4 is a cross section of the completed seam; Fig. 5 is a plan view, representing the mechanism used in forming the seam; Fig. 6 is an end view of Fig. 5, and Fig. 7 is a plan View of the completed seam.

In these drawings, A represents the body fabric, in which is formed, by means of the cooperating grooved presser foot 13 and ribbed throat plate C, an air tuck a which is secured by lines of stitching b, b, passing through the body fabric on opposite sides of the base of the tuck; an under thread 0 concatenating with the loops of the thread I), b and holding the tuck in position. The edge of the body fabric d beyond the base of the tuck, is provided with a hem fold a formed in it by the folder D, and the air tuck a is pressed downwardly upon the edge portion (1 of the fabric, by means of the presser foot B. A strip F, preferably of lace or other suitable material, and preferably also ruffled, is inserted between the base d and the tuck a and is secured by means of a line of stitching b, which passes down through the apex of the tuck a, the strip F, the hem fold a and the edge of the body fabric d, thus making the completed seam shown in Fig. 4. Of course, other means may be devised for forming this seam, but the mechanism shown in Fig. 5 is the one which I believe to be best adapted for the purpose.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is'.

l. A seam for sewed articles, comprising a body fabric, a tuck formed therein within and along the edge thereof, and having its edge beyond the tuck formed with a hem fold having the edge of the hem fold turned upwardly against the tuck to conceal the raw edges of said hem fold, an inserted strip between the upwardly turned hem fold and the tuck, and a line of stitching uniting the said tuck, inserted strip, hem fold and body fabric; substantially as described.

2. A seam for sewed articles, comprising the body fabric provided with an air tuck pressed up vertically out of the body of the goods, lines of stitching passing through the body fabric upon opposite sides of said air tuck, an inserted strip between the base of the air tuck and the edge of the fabric, anda third line of stitching passing through the air tuck, the inserted strip and the body fabric; substantially as described.

A seam for sewed articles, comprising a body fabric, an air tuck formed out of said body fabric, a strip inserted between the base of the air tuck and the edge of the fabric, and a line of stitching passing through the air tuck, the inserted strip and the body fabric; substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature, in presence of two witnesses.

CHESTER MCNEIL.

Witnesses F. S. Nonrrr, JULIUs SHIRE. 

